Traditional food of Arbus and the Costa Verde: what to eat in south-west Sardinia

The dish that carries the name of Arbus is lamb from the local black sheep, stewed with wild cardoons and finished with saffron. The Sardinian regional government lists it among the island’s traditional food products, together with the cheeses made from the same black sheep. Around them sits the food of southern Sardinia: culurgiones, malloreddus, civraxiu bread, pardulas, new olive oil from nearby Gonnosfanadiga and saffron from the Medio Campidano plain.

Arbus is a small town in the hills above the Costa Verde, on Sardinia’s south-west coast. This guide lists what to try while you are here, with one rule: every dish comes with a source. Where we mention official recognition, we link to the Region’s own product sheets and to Sardegna Turismo, the Region’s tourism website.

Arbus food at a glance

WhatWhat it isWhere it’s from
Black-sheep lamb with wild cardoonsA stew with white wine, sun-dried tomatoes and saffronArbus (regional traditional product)
Nera di Arbus cheesesYoung, medium and long-aged sheep’s cheese, plus ricottaArbus (regional traditional product)
CulurgionesFresh pasta filled with potato and cheeseAll of Sardinia
Civraxiu and coccoiDurum-wheat bread; decorated festive breadSouthern Sardinia and the whole island
Olives and olive oilNew oil and the Nera di Gonnos oliveGonnosfanadiga, a short drive from Arbus
Zafferano di Sardegna DOPSaffron, picked in NovemberSan Gavino Monreale, Turri, Villanovafranca
Pardulas, papassinos, gallettinasRicotta tarts, raisin-and-nut biscuits, dry biscuitsCampidano and the Monte Linas villages

1. Black-sheep lamb with wild cardoons

In Sardinian it is angioi de brabei niedda de Arbus cun gureu de satu. The Sardinian Region’s product sheet (in Italian) records it as a dish of the municipality of Arbus and describes how it is made:

  • the meat of the black sheep is cut into pieces, browned in oil and splashed with white wine;
  • a chopped mix of garlic, parsley and plenty of sun-dried tomatoes goes in, with a little water;
  • wild cardoons, a thistle-like plant whose stalks are eaten, are cleaned, kept in water with lemon and then cooked slowly with the meat;
  • saffron is added only at the end.

According to the same sheet it is an old dish, tied to shepherding and to the black sheep raised here. It is cooked at home in Arbus and in the local agriturismi, farm restaurants run by working farms, and the recipe is handed down from one generation to the next.

2. The Nera di Arbus sheep

The dish is named after a real breed: the Nera di Arbus, the black sheep of Arbus. The breed sheet of Assonapa, Italy’s national sheep and goat breeders’ association, describes it like this:

  • a native Sardinian breed, small in size;
  • black fleece and black skin, with horns in both sexes;
  • raised mainly in the Medio Campidano area around Arbus and in Ogliastra, on hill pastures and Mediterranean scrub;
  • kept for milk and wool: the coarse wool was used for mattresses, rugs and weaving.

The regional cheese sheet adds that the black wool was also used for orbace, Sardinia’s traditional heavy woollen cloth.

3. Black-sheep cheese and ricotta

The cheeses of the Nera di Arbus are also on the regional list of traditional products, for the municipality of Arbus. They are made from this sheep’s milk with kid or lamb rennet, in three styles:

  • young, eaten within 60 days: straw-yellow rind, white paste;
  • medium and long-aged, from 120 days to over a year: pale yellow, saltier and sharper as it ages. For the long-aged cheese the milk is used raw.

Ricotta comes from the same milk. Before dairies existed, the sheet explains, cheese was made in sa domu de su casu, a small cheese hut where it was smoked over Mediterranean scrub. Since the 1960s it has also been made in small dairies.

4. Pasta: culurgiones, malloreddus and fregula

Sardegna Turismo’s page on Sardinian cooking lists fregula and malloreddus among the island’s dried pastas and culurgiones among its fresh ones. None of them belongs to Arbus alone: you will find them all over Sardinia, here included.

  • Culurgiones: fresh pasta parcels filled with potato and cheese. The regional list gives the whole of Sardinia as their area.
  • Malloreddus: small ridged durum-wheat dumplings, often called Sardinian gnocchi.
  • Fregula: small toasted balls of durum-wheat pasta.

5. Bread: civraxiu and coccoi

Civraxiu is a large, slow-rising durum-wheat loaf. The regional list gives the whole island as its area, with a special mention of the Campidano around Cagliari. In nearby Gonnosfanadiga, a member of Italy’s Città del Pane (Bread Towns) association, it is one of the town’s products.

Coccoi a pitzus is a round, hard-dough bread notched by hand into patterns, baked for big occasions such as weddings and Easter. At Easter there is also a coccoi shaped like an animal, with a whole egg set into the dough.

6. Olives and new oil: the Nera di Gonnos

Every November, about 15 minutes’ drive from Arbus, Gonnosfanadiga celebrates the olive harvest and the new oil with its Sagra delle Olive, a food festival devoted to the local Nera di Gonnos olive. The 39th edition runs from Friday 20 to Sunday 22 November 2026. Dates, venues and what you’ll find at the stalls are in our guide to the Sagra delle Olive (in Italian).

7. Saffron from the Medio Campidano

The saffron that finishes the cardoon stew does not travel far. Zafferano di Sardegna DOP (DOP is the EU protected designation of origin) is grown around San Gavino Monreale, Turri and Villanovafranca, in the Medio Campidano. According to Sardegna Turismo the flowers are picked in the first half of November, and in those weeks the three villages hold the «Strade dello Zafferano» festival: in 2025 it ran from 1 to 16 November. Check the current year’s dates on the website before you plan around it.

Saffron goes into sweets too: you’ll find it in the ricotta filling of pardulas.

8. Sweets: pardulas, papassinos and gallettinas

Sardegna Turismo’s page on traditional desserts mentions three that belong to this part of the island:

  • Pardulas: little baskets of thin pastry with a soft filling, made at Easter. In the Campidano and the Sulcis the filling is usually ricotta, flavoured with lemon and saffron.
  • Papassinos (is papassinus in the south): biscuits with raisins and nuts, often iced, which began as autumn sweets. In the Campidano they are flavoured with cinnamon, vanilla or sapa, a syrup of cooked grape must.
  • Gallettinas: light, crumbly dry biscuits for breakfast, which come from the villages around Monte Linas, the mountain range between Gonnosfanadiga, Villacidro and Fluminimaggiore.

On festive tables you will also see amaretti, almond-paste gueffus wrapped in coloured paper, and seadas, cheese-filled pastries with honey that come from the shepherding culture of the Barbagia.

9. Campidano wine

Every part of Sardinia has its own grapes. For the Campidano, Sardegna Turismo names Monica, a red, and Nuragus, a white.

When to eat what

  • November is the richest month: new oil at the Sagra delle Olive, the saffron harvest, autumn papassinos. It is also a good month for the Montevecchio and Ingurtosu mines and everything in our guide to Arbus out of season (both in Italian).
  • Easter: pardulas and the egg-topped coccoi.
  • All year: cheese, bread and pasta.

Where to try it

The black-sheep and cardoon stew, the regional sheet says, is cooked at home and in the agriturismi around Arbus. If you want to try it, ask ahead whether it is on the menu. Cheese, bread and oil are sold in the town’s shops and grocery stores, which stay open all year round: Arbus is a working town, not a seasonal resort. After lunch the Costa Verde is within easy reach by car: the Piscinas dunes are 45 minutes away.

FAQ: food in Arbus

What is the typical dish of Arbus?

Lamb from the local black sheep stewed with wild cardoons (angioi de brabei niedda de Arbus cun gureu de satu), with white wine, sun-dried tomatoes and saffron. The Sardinian Region lists it among its traditional food products, for the municipality of Arbus.

What is the Nera di Arbus sheep?

A native Sardinian breed: small, with black fleece and black skin, raised mainly around Arbus and in Ogliastra for milk and wool.

What cheese is made in Arbus?

Nera di Arbus sheep’s cheese, young, medium or long-aged, and ricotta from the same milk. The cheeses are on the regional list of traditional products.

Where can I eat the black-sheep stew with cardoons?

According to the regional sheet it is cooked at home in Arbus and in the local agriturismi, the farm restaurants. Ask ahead whether it is on the menu.

What sweets should I try in southern Sardinia?

Ricotta pardulas with lemon and saffron at Easter, papassinos in autumn and, in the villages around Monte Linas, the dry biscuits called gallettinas.

Where does Sardinian saffron come from?

Zafferano di Sardegna DOP is grown around San Gavino Monreale, Turri and Villanovafranca, in the Medio Campidano. It is harvested in the first half of November.

Staying in Arbus

Casa Bruna is our apartment in Arbus: two double bedrooms, a fully equipped kitchen, heating, room for four and self check-in from 3 pm to 9 pm. With a kitchen of your own, you can take local cheese, bread and oil straight to the table. Gonnosfanadiga is about 15 minutes away by car, the Montevecchio mine 10.

See Casa Bruna or check dates and book direct, with no booking-site commission.

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